Saturday, 3 January 2026

Oman - An Arabian Adventure - 10th December 2025

Somewhere the crew did not visit in February were the vast pivot fields of Ash Shisr.  If you have a look at Google maps to the north west of Thumrait you can see the barren desert pock marked by hundreds of vast green circular fields that exist here because deep aquifer water was rediscovered during the excavation of the what may be the ancient city of Ubar at the site of the current settlement. 

It was once again a drive through nothing and beyond Thumrait it got even more desolate but then suddenly the first pivot appeared, lush and verdant in a sea of dust.  









Journey views

To find birds we needed to discover a pivot that had been recently harvested or mown giving us a similar opportunity as the alfalfa fields in Lesvos and indeed, this was what many of the crops appeared to be.

The first we stopped at had a few White Storks and Daurian Shrikes while Tawny Pipits and the odd Desert Wheatear flicked up and down off irrigators.  A Hoopoe was under margin trees and both Marsh and Pallid Harriers were noted before we moved on again. 


White Storks



A properly mown field appeared on the right and immediately we could see Lapwings and a few seconds later we were out and watching a staggering 27 Sociables high stepping through the grass.  To our delight a delicate White-tailed Lapwing was with them and it too gave some excellent views.  This was a new bird for some of the party. We scanned the surrounding area but could find no more and just the odd Tawny Pipit and Wheatear but moved onwards with big smiles.


White-tailed Lapwing

Sociable Lapwings

White-tailed Lapwing

Sociable Lapwing

White-tailed Lapwing & Sociable Lapwing

White-tailed Lapwing & Sociable Lapwings

White-tailed Lapwing & Sociable Lapwings

Sociable Lapwings

White-tailed Lapwing

White-tailed Lapwing

Sociable Lapwings

White-tailed Lapwing - Steve Bird

White-tailed Lapwing - Steve Bird

White-tailed Lapwing - Steve Bird

We poked around the back of the village and found some smaller crop fields and a male Pied Wheatear popped up on a post giving us something to chew over id wise before agreeing that our first thoughts were correct.  There were Arabian Grey Shrikes, Marsh Harriers, Red-wattled Lapwings and a large flock of Western Cattle Egrets in the plots. Siberian Chiffchaff and male Eastern Black Redstart were in the trees with noisy House Sparrows.  A glance up before leaving added a Shikra which looked like an adult female bar some faint breast streaking and heavy tail bars.  A Green Sandpiper flew up from a water trough puddle as we came back out.

Pied Wheatear

Shikra

Shikra - it even did the super fast silly flap-flap-flap gliding


Arabian Grey Shrike

Our map took us to other viewpoints where we found a flock of Common Kestrels but no Amur Falcons along with Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, Crested Larks, a flock of Eurasian Skylarks and quite a few groups of Black-crowned Sparrow-Larks.

Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark

Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark: See how the bill size changed with angle.  We thought it was a small billed Short-toed type to start with

Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark

Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark and a tiny bit of shade and the front becomes more heavily streaked.  The harsh light was challenging

Eventually another mown field was discovered but Red-wattled were the only Lapwings.  There were plenty of Pipits and there were at least four Richard’s striding alongside Tawnys.  There were more Common Kestrels here and some Sand and Pale Crag Martins.

Pivot Pipits

To be honest it was just too hot and hazy and even the closest birds were a shimmery mess so we abandoned and wormed our way through the tracks back to the road where we were greeted by a flock of 44 Sociable Lapwings dropping into a field.  Whether these included the 27 we had earlier was unclear but the White-tailed Lapwing was certainly not with them and it seemed more likely that this was a different group, taking us to 71 for the day and 85 for the trip.  To make the most of this astonishing area you would have to be out here before first light having already scouted out the best attainable fields otherwise it could a very long and frustrating day.

44 Sociable Lapwings

A crop of 23 Sociable Lapwings






Once back on the main road we continued north to check out another ‘green’ farm at Al Beed.  The area is fenced but you can look in but it was simply too hot and the crops too high.  However one of our targets here was Greater Hoopoe Lark and a couple duly obliged alongside the car; scurrying along on this long legs.  This was another of my ‘not seen for an age’ birds.  They are one of my favourites.  However, there was one drawback here – the Face Flies.  They appeared en masse from nowhere and trying to get your cheese roll to your mouth without the meat option was fraught with danger! I like flies but there may have been some serious flapping and cursing going on – not that the flies cared.





Greater Hoopoe Lark 


Lunch and larks done, we tried to leave without our new buddies but the car was full of hundreds of them and we took many of them for a free ride to at least the first petrol station where an ice-cream was required!



The Flies

From here we opted to retry Mudayy for the Hypocolius (just for me, thanks guys!) but it was again too hot and despite new info we once again failed to find them and in fact saw very little at all bar a Blackstart and Bluethroat at the sandgrouse area and a random Ring-necked Parakeet!

Arabian Paper wasp sp

Blackstart 




With the light fading we had just one more stop to make and a slight diversion took us to the famous landfill (yay!) at Thumrait where the sky was full of Eagles.  Over 300 Steppe Eagles of various ages circled over the tip and the surrounding hills and one of my pics has about 135 in it.  There were a few Greater Spotteds and a single Eastern Imperial too and a few Fan-tailed Ravens and White Storks.



















All Steppe Eagles


They slowly began to drift low over our heads and spiral up over the low hills were you could already see the dark shapes of others lined along the ridges in preparation for sleep. It was another memorable but strangely silent end to a dusty desert day.



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