With much higher water levels we were able to board our boat
from the hotel gardens and headed out into the lagoon and then up river a ways.
It was a far different experience to my previous visits with no visible river banks
at all and I suspect six or seven feet of extra water that took the river up to
and through the trees.
As such the birding was also different with far fewer
heronry type birds but a wealth of small species foraging in the trees, often at
low level.
There were plenty of singing Wrens with Black-throated,
House, Bay, Spot-breasted and Black-throated and a superb selection of New
World Warblers with Chestnut-sided and Yellow Warblers mingling with Golden-winged
and Bay-breasted and ridiculously bright Prothonotaries which look like a
steely blue bird has been clasped by the tail and dipped in a tin of the richest
cadmium yellow paint. Unlike many such coloured birds there is not even any
demarcation of ear coverts or crown feathers – it is simply solid yellow and they
never cease to amaze me.
|
Golden-winged Warbler |
|
Prothonotary Warbler |
Northern Waterthrush dashed across the fast flowing river
calling loudly and a Grey-crowned Yellowthroat showed very well in some reedy
vegetation while in the trees behind two male Hooded Warblers played
chase. This was one of my most wanted
North American warblers. A
Yellow-throated Vireo was watched despatching a large hairy caterpillar.
|
Yellow-throated Vireo |
The dry start did not last too long and persistent rain soon
began to fall but it did not really bother the birds too much. There were quite
a few Flycatchers with Great Crested and Dusky-capped, Northern Tropical Pewee,
Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Yellow, Mistletoe and Yellow-bellied Tyrannulets (another
new one for me).
|
Great Crested Flycatcher |
|
Northern Jacana |
|
Anhinga |
|
Anhinga |
|
Green Ibis |
|
Green Heron |
|
Neotropic Cormorant |
|
Little Blue Heron |
|
Great White Egret - the big birds were easier to photograph |
|
It looked idyllic but that all changed |
|
Green Kingfisher - Neil Colgate |
Black-crowned Tityras were in the tree tops and White-browed
Gnatcatchers and Cinnamon Becards gave us some close views unlike Dusky and
Bare-crowned Antbirds which remained stubbornly hidden from us. We search for Yellow-tailed
Orioles with no joy but did see several parties of Baltimores as they moved
through with a host of the regular Tanagers.
Green, Amazon and Ringed Kingfishers were all seen but seldom stayed
still for long but the river was too fast flowing of American Pygmy. A male Slaty-tailed Trogon stared down at us.
|
Green Kingfisher |
|
Amazon Kingfisher |
|
Ringed Kingfisher |
|
Baltimore Oriole |
Both Caracaras were overhead but the light was too poor to
pick out any Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures although we did see a damp Roadside
Hawk and our first Osprey. Red-lored Amazons
and Olive-throated Parakeets were in the treetops with Pale-vented Pigeons and
some monster Green Iguanas which were ignored by the Mantled Howlers and
White-faced Capuchin troops that we found.
|
Pale-vented Pigeon |
|
Red-lored Amazon |
|
Slaty-tailed Trogon |
|
Green Iguana |
|
Green Iguana |
|
Emerald Basilisk |
|
White-faced Capuchin |
|
White-faced Capuchin |
|
Mantled Howler |
Breakfast saw us return to shore feeling like we had just
scratched the surface of this amazing wetland. A male Black-headed Trogon
greeted us upon our return and its behaviour mirrored that of the Slaty-tailed
and it came in closer to give us a hard look! They are funny birds.
|
Black-headed Trogon |
|
Black-headed Trogon |
|
Black-headed Trogon |
There was time after breakfast for a final walk around the
gardens and we got most of the crew onto Spot-breasted Wren and Grey-headed
Dove while a Bronzy Hermit did not linger.
A Yellow-olive Flatbill showed well with Mistletoe Tyrannulet and Common
Tody Flycatcher for company and Dusky-capped Flycatchers, Streak-headed
Woodcreepers and Yellow-throated Euphonias were all feeding on one small bush
near the chalets.
|
Bronzy Hermit - Neil Colgate |
|
Yellow-throated Euphonia |
|
Black Vulture |
|
Cocoa flowers |
|
Streak-headed Woodcreeper - Neil Colgate |
There was one more treat in store and Jose found an American
Pygmy Kingfisher sat up under the lagoon edge bushes where it fed unconcerned
by our presence. With such high water levels this was a great bird to get back –
smiles all round.
|
American Pygmy Kingfisher |
|
American Pygmy Kingfisher |
|
American Pygmy Kingfisher - Bruce Rolls |
It was soon time to hit the road again and we retraced our
steps of yesterday up to Medio Queso stopping along the way once again to watch
Ringed Kingfishers, some close roadside Double Striped Thick-knees and at least
one Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. It was
hot and sunny at this point but once again the rain descended as we reached the
wetlands. How frustrating. We stopped on
the approach road and scanned the marshes while trying to avoid getting too
wet. White-throated Crakes were giggling
on either side and we even got to see one this time while a male Nicaraguan
Seedfinch was using the big pink bill to delicately nibble at tiny rice
seeds.
|
Double Striped Thick-knee & Southern Lapwing |
|
Ringed Kingfisher
|
|
Red-winged Blackbird- Neil Colgate |
|
Red-winged Blackbird- Neil Colgate |
We got lucky with the other Nicaraguan speciality – the Grackle
– and I found a female going for a ride on the back of a cow that was almost
completely invisible in the tall grasses. Blue-winged Teals were seen in flight
and a Pinnated Bittern popped up for a look-see before retracting its serpentine
neck. The rain was increasing and we
abandoned our birding attempts and started to make our way south. Lunch was taken at the Iguana café where as usual the mighty
reptiles were the stars (although the Dragonfruit drink was rather fab too) but
the rain continued to fall steadily.
We
arrived at La Quinta in Sarapiqui not long before dusk and bags were quickly
dropped so that we could have a look around but a huge thunderstorm broke
overhead and the skies darkened and the flashing back end of a Buff-rumped
Warbler was the only bird we saw before retreating.
All the walkways are covered between the rooms and dining
area at La Quinta which at least meant we could get out after dinner to look
for frogs!
|
Red-eyed Treefrog |
|
Hourglass Treefrog |
|
Hourglass Treefrog |
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