A final early morning pre-main breakfast trip back on the
Kinabatangan with certain target in Lee’s mind.
It began with a pair of robust Straw-headed Bulbuls duetting in the
overhanging mangroves where Red & Black Broadbills were also seen.
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Straw-headed Bulbuls |
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Straw-headed Bulbul |
We repeated many of the earlier boat trip birds including
four of the Hornbills. The Rhinoceros
Hornbills were at last seen in proper daylight and we watched two pairs at
close range including one around a huge nest box way up in large waterside
tree. Just how the rangers got it up
there I do not know. White-bellied
Woodpecker was heard drumming and Storm’s Storks gave the best views so far
with one preening for an age in a tree almost above us.
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Storm’s Storks |
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Storm’s Storks |
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Storm’s Storks |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill - female - white eyes |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill - male - red eyes |
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Rhinoceros Hornbill - what a bird |
A troop of Long-tailed Macaques descended around us to feed
on Water Hyacinth tubers and literally threw themselves from the trees into the
water around us to get to the patch.
Some of them were stuffing their faces just a metre from us. It was a fantastic experience.
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Long-tailed Macaques |
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While watching the Macaques the Blue-rumped Bee-eaters performed |
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Blue-rumped Bee-eater |
We had yet another go for Bornean Ground Cuckoo with no
vocal response whatsoever but a pair of Malaysian Blue Flycatchers did appear
in the understorey and put on a show. We
also tried in vain for Bristlehead and a couple of black flying birds peaked
hope but were Common Hill Mynas but they were also a new bird for us so all was
good. Dollarbirds perched up in the morning sunshine and Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeons were likewise sunning at the tops.
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Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon |
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Malaysian Blue Flycatcher |
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Oriental Dollarbird |
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The magnificent Idea stolli virgo power gliding across the whole width of the river |
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Dillenia suffruticosa |
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Oriental Darter |
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Prevost's Uber Sexy Squirrel |
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Orthetrum testaceum |
All too soon we had to be back for breakfast and then back
on the boat for the five minute journey back to the mainland to rejoin Sham and
the bus.
It did not seem to take too long to get to the Gomantong
Caves road and we stepped once more in the hot and sultry air for a walk along
the trails to the famous Swiftlet and Bat amphitheatre. There were Butterflies
and Dragonflies everywhere. Most were
simply stunning.
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Junonia atlites atlites |
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Lamproptera curius curius |
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Vindula dejone dajakorum |
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Vindula dejone dajakorum |
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Neurothemis fluctuans |
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Orthetrum testaceum |
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Rhyothemis phyllis - clouds of these Flutterers |
Rhyothemis phyllis
The board walk through the damp woods was immediately
productive with a juvenile Western Hooded Pitta that hopped up on the handrail
and then posed just long enough for scope views and while watching it a
Maroon-breasted Philentoma and I have to admit to having not even heard of the
family!
Western Hooded Pitta - Mr Lee
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Maroon-breasted Philentoma |
Crashing branches not far from us in the trees revealed the
next somewhat hairy treat – a female Orang-Utan with a three or four year old
infant. The views were tantalising to
start with but after a while all got good views of our ginger friends. Seeing wild Orangutans in Borneo is never a
guaranteed thing so we were over the moon to find our own. They were automatically Jane’s ‘Bird Of The
Day…’.
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Forgive me but they were my first Orang-Utans |
It was not much further to the actual caves and we were the
only people there. They are vast,
towering limestone Cathedrals hollowed out from all directions and the system
is more like a huge arch with a vast opening at either end.
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The dark mass in the middle is just bats... |
Unfortunately the bi-annual Edible-nest
harvesting had taken place the week before and you could see thousands of
little white scars affixed to the sheerest walls. There were some of the Edible-nest Swiftlets still around
and a couple were beginning to start all over again. Three other species were actively nesting
with Mossy-nest and Black-nest on separate walls and a cleft held hundreds of
twittering Plume-toed.
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Black-nest Swiftlets - note how the nest narrows and tapers up to where the bird's head sits |
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Edible-nest Swiftlet nest were a week before |
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Mossy-nest Swiftlet |
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Plume-toed Swiftlets |
Swiftlets were zooming all around and a particularly scabby and very tame Crested Serpent Eagle was standing guard at the entrance and dropped down to pick up a bird floundering on the cave floor.
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Crested Serpent Eagle |
This was probably a preferable death to being ripped to
pieces by the chunky Cave Crabs, frankly terrifying Cave Centipedes and a zillion
Cockroaches scavenging across the vast mountain of Swiftlet and Bat detritus
raining down from above. I wore my hat,
covered my mouth and tucked my trousers in my socks! The smell was not overly bad just rather
overpowering. You did not touch a
handrail and tried to watch where you put your feet on the boardwalk.
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Cave Centipede |
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Cave Cockroaches |
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Cave Crab |
And talking of the Wrinkle-lipped Free-tailed Bats, there
were large aggregations of them on the upper walls but it was not until Sham
shone his wonder torch to the highest point of the cavernous ceiling that you
could discern a monstrous black mass that seemed to undulate with the beam. I could only imagine just how many were up
there.
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Wrinkle-lipped Free-tailed Bat |
Back in the sunshine we watch the dragonflies again before
retracing our steps through the boggy trees.
The Orangutans had moved on but several White-crowned Shamas were
flitting around and more often then not all you could see were the white tail
sides and snowy cap.
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White-crowned Shama |
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White-crowned Shama - love that tail! |
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Neurothemis fluctuans |
Angie spotted a little warm coloured bird under a log and we
at first thought that it was a mouse before it resolved itself into a
Black-capped Babbler. To me it most
resembled in actions and gait, one of the New World Vermivora creeping around
almost pipit-like on the forest floor.
It was totally unconcerned with us and crossed under the boardwalk
before perching up just a few feet away.
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Black-capped Babbler |
Without moving at all we managed to pick up several more new
birds with Buff-necked Woodpecker, a hefty Red-throated Barbet, a shiny blue
Verditer Flycatcher, Yellow-breasted Flowerpeckers and stumpy little
Horsfield’s Babblers.
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Buff-necked Woodpecker |
All too soon it was time to move on although I did try and
sneak some more dragonfly time in and found a small Water Monitor.
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Oh and a Javen Myna pic from lunch |
Sepilok called and it was not really that far till we
arrived at the Jungle Resort and before too long the crew had reassembled for a
walk around the forested grounds beyond.
It was a somewhat undulating and sweaty circuit and Woodpeckers held
sway with three new species. We made up
for only hearing White-bellied earlier in the day (it seems like days ago!) and
spent some quality time with a pair as they poked around the trees. The female was a bit raggedy but the male was
immaculate.
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White-bellied Woodpecker - female |
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White-bellied Woodpecker - female |
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White-bellied Woodpecker - male |
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White-bellied Woodpecker - male |
Two similar looking species followed with Crimson-winged and
Banded – both species being decked out in lemon, olive and red like the
Kinabalu Checker-throated Woodpecker. All three were scoped for an age.
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Crimson-winged Woodpecker |
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Banded Woodpecker |
A Violet Cuckoo was singing and Lee picked it up quite high
up. Another delightful dinky Cuckoo and
properly purple! Shortly after this we
found a comical looking Black & Yellow Broadbill but more of those
tomorrow…
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Violet Cuckoo |
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Antlion sp |
Back at the rooms there was time to slightly freshen up and
then we were straight back out and on the bus to the Sepilok Rainforest
Discovery Centre (RDC) for an organised night walk but we were puzzled by the
early arrival – the sun having not actually set yet. There were hoards of people too and it soon
became clear that we were here for some other sort of evening spectacle – Giant
Red Flying Squirrels that come out of their roost boxes and dusk and glide out
across the jungle.
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We were way up on a canopy walk (non-bouncy) and the trees
towered above us but to be honest in the late light we did not really have any
idea just how high we were above the forest floor. The boxes were pointed out so that we could
keep an eye on them and then suddenly there was a hubbub from the crowd to the
right and a large fluffy beast scampered up the tree. In fact there were two and you could see
their diagnostic black tipped tails dangling over branches. Both were gaining height and before too long
one leapt and spread that amazing sail of flappy skin between its limbs and
power glided all the way across the clearing to the tree next to us. It was spot lighted most of the way and
somehow I managed to follows it in the camera most of the way but in doing so
missed the second one following along behind.
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Giant Red Flying Squirrels |
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Giant Red Flying Squirrel |
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Giant Red Flying Squirrels |
Both posed for us for a while before climbing once again
into the leafy canopy to take the next leap of faith into the darkening
jungle. Almost everyone else melted away
at this point but we ambled on and Sham quickly found us another Bornean Colugo
peering down at us with that very strange face.
A plainer animal than the one at Poring Springs but Nevin said that they
are incredibly variable. Unlike the
Squirrels we did not see this one fly.
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Bornean Colugo |
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Bornean Colugo - odd in every way |
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The only frog we saw on the entire trip... |
Lee asked us to wait at a junction while one of the local
guides went to work and before too long we were ushered into the undergrowth
where somehow he had found a tiny little Tarsier out looking for his
insectoidal dinner. This tiny primate is
all head and eyes and they do not reflect light so just how the guide found him
I do not know.
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Tarsier - a few pics, I know but I may never see another one |
We hunkered down no more than six feet away and watched
him. The lights and our presence did not
seem to phase him in the least. What a treat.
Once we had had our fill we left him to his nocturnal foraging and
carried on along the track finding our second Slow Loris licking sap from a
trunk and an immature Tiger Tarantula waiting at the mouth of his burrow.
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Slow Loris |
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Slow Loris |
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Tiger Tarantula |
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And a puzzling chunky rodent. Is it just a Brown Rat? |
You may not have been able to see our smiles in the dark
when we returned to the bus but they were all there. We would return the following morning to
explore the reserve in daylight.
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