Saturday, 4 October 2025

Estonia for Oriole Birding - 1st-2nd October 2025

1st: 

After a good flight heading away from the sunset with Ascend Air (never heard of them but subbing for Whizz!) from Luton we touched down in good time in Tallinn for the start of the Oriole bespoke autumn tour for the York RSPB group.  

Day meets Night


Tarvo met us and we were soon heading off to Altmõisa near his home town of Haapsalu where I stayed last June. 

It was gone 11pm before we arrived and a Tawny Owl greeted us from the shadowy trees.  Sleep soon arrived.

2nd:

A pre-dawn rise revealed a very chilly morning and both Long-eared and Tawny Owls could be heard outside while a susurration of stirring Barnacle Geese were to be heard in the distance out in the coastal bays.

By just before seven it was light enough to see the flicking, ticking shapes of Robins outside (Tarvo had over 100 on the drive in from home) and Blackbirds and Redwings could be heard. We were soon on the vans and making the short drive down to Puise at the end of the headland.




What happened in the next one hour and forty-four minutes was the most exciting display of passerine visible migration I have ever seen.  The list below can speak in numbers but it was the spectacle of hundreds of Tits on the move that will be engrained in the memory.



The first little white snowball Northern Long-tailed Tits barrelled through and I joyously made sure everyone saw them, unaware of what we were going to witness and by the time breakfast called us back we had counted 966 of these super cuties moving through the headland in flocks of up to 70 but they were not all low down with some groups way up in the sky that was still thinking about colouring up for the day.  It was an experience never to be forgotten. 

Northern Long-tailed Tits









Northern Long-tailed Tits - and at last in a glimmer of light!

Northern Long-tailed Titsdots


But it was not just LTTs and we logged 222 Great Tits and 103 Blue Tits, three Coal Tits and a single Willow Tit and small groups of finches and thrushes (including Mistles) were still on the move. Hawfinches circled and one came down and perched up and plump gleaming raspberry sorbet Bullfinches moved through too making loud tooting calls. 

There were occasional Buntings and a few Tree Sparrows but oddly we did not hear a single Robin given how many there were around Altmõisa.  Higher up Wood Pigeons were on the move with Barnacle and both Tundra Bean and Russian Whitefront flocks and three Cranes were picked up over a distant wood where we had also seen 40 Great Egrets leave their roost.  Many others could be seen in the bays where White-tailed Eagles sat on rocks.  Two immature birds did a full talon grapple tumble right in front of us!

Wood Pigeons

Both Grey Geese

Barnacle Geese


Barnacle Geese

White-tailed Eagle

We checked the local Starlings for Rose-coloured but had no joy and counted cold looking Swallows as they circled and waited for breakfast to warm up and take to the wing.  Chiffchaff was the only Warbler and two icy white Treecreepers were seen in what we called The Tit Tree and down on a shoreline boulder a Black Redstart sat boldly.  A Lesser Spotted Woodpecker bounded over and it felt strange to see this species as a passage bird – in fact I do not remember the last time I actually saw one!

Starlings 

Jays - along with a few other Corvids were seen moving

It was difficult to tear ourselves away.  On the short drive back a Buzzard was sat up on the wires and I was delighted to find two Nutcrackers as they flew in front of the van but we could not stop at that point and I had to hope that we would get another chance.  They were my first non-British ones and the one at Kingsdown in Kent in September 1998 seems a lifetime ago.

After a fine Altmõisa breakfast we headed back to the coast to start with and scanned the rocky bay at Põgari where we took up position on the old barn ramp like last summer. A group of Barnacle Geese on the meadow in front and the bay held a large number of dabblers as well as a raft of 600 Tufted Duck that contained a few Scaup and Pochard too.  Gangs of Goldeneye snorkelled closer to  shore where Lapwings and two Grey Plover were found.




Yellowhammers came up from the surrounding fields along with a few Skylarks and Tit passage continued overhead with 12 Northern Long-tailed Tits, three Great and four Blue Tits.  The flashing red tail and Black Redstart flicked by and she perched up in a bare Rowan for us. 

Suddenly all the wildfowl were up in the air and flying manically in all directions.  It was not the co-ordinated attack of a Peregrine but the sneakily lumbering approach of not one but four White-tailed Eagles.  They look cumbersome but can turn and drop on a slow bird in an instant! Three Woodlark came by as we got back on the vans and a Kestrel was hovering alongside the road.



On to Haapsalu to check out the lagoon that they town overlooks.  Tarvo had told the crew that if they did not get to ten White-tailed Eagles then there would be no cake.  We managed 13…  There were vast rafts of feeding Coot and associated Gadwall and Wigeon – two prime weed thieves and 700 Pochard in a single group was exceptional for this nationally declining species.  Four Great Crested Grebes and female Goosander were also new along with six Whooper Swans that flew through but there were no other wild swans amongst the countless Mute Swans.


Raven and the Eagle

One of the local massive Great Black-backed Gulls were attempting to take down an out of range Polar Bear.  There were four species of Tits in the trees and the local Rooks, Hooded Crows and Jackdaws were all looking smart


The Bear never stood a chance

Jackdaw

Hooded Crow

Having earnt our cake we looped through the rather splendid castle grounds before fish soup followed by cinnamon buns and coffee.





On again and a stop at the ‘Moorhen Pond’ immediately gave us two of this tricky Estonian bird.  Like last June the closest one dived immediately and was never seen again and in fact I think half the group never saw either of them before they vanished!



However, there were no tears as a male Grey-headed Woodpecker put on a superb show in the lakeside trees and gave me my best ever views and all Moorhen related thoughts dissipated. A Hawfinch was sat up on a dead snag and Nuthatch called while in the sunny verges there were Migrant Hawkers and Common Darters sunning themselves and a few Hoverflies on the Dandelions which seemed to be Helophilus pendulus and Eristalis pertinax but I will have to check whether both species are found in Estonia. 

Grey-headed Woodpecker

Common Darter

Helophilus pendulus and Eristalis pertinax

We made our way back through the lanes towards
 Altmõisa for a ‘rest’ but were forced to stop and watch a Grey Ghost male Hen Harrier patiently quartering the fields. Always a joy.

Hen Harrier


A rest for some us meant a walk down to the sea and back on the boardwalk across the road.  Judith and I did quite well with a few left over thrushes and tits, ticking Robins and a Reed Bunting while three Sparrowhawks were on the prowl.  Down at the end a decoy duck on a pond had me puzzled for a while and a Northern Wheatear was picked up on the rocks. A Stock Dove went over with some Wood Pigeons and a Great Spotted Woodpecker called.








Quack


There were plenty of insects including a very loud Cricket that I just could find and I never even saw any movement.  It was not Bog Bush Cricket which was seen along with Field Grasshopper.  There were many Darters with Ruddy and Common and several dainty Black and the odd Migrant Hawker. 

Common Darter

Common Darter

Ruddy and Common Darters

Black Darter

Black Darter

Black Darter


Downed apples and pears were attracting Commas and Red Admirals and several Hornets that looked slightly odd and that I presume are new Queens.  Sericomyia silentis was the pick of the flies noted and there were both Bombus terrestris type and pascuorum Bumblebees.

Red Admiral

Comma


Comma





Hornet

Phaonia sp

Pollenia sp 

Sericomyia silentis

A ex-Mole

Common Frog

The gall of probably Urophora cardui on Field Thistle

Knapweed

White Dead Nettle

Alder Buckthorn

Clustered Bellflower

Juniper

Marsh Tit on the sunflower heads outside the hotel


Marsh Tit

We were back on the road by 5pm and heading towards Haeska where the fields were slowly checked for Lynx and Elk with no joy but we did pick up a fine Great Grey Shrike and a small mixed flock of grey geese going over.  We tried for Pygmy Owls but had no joy so headed for the massive Haeska viewing tower where we stayed until the sun dipped below the horizon.

Great Grey Shrike

 


The view was superb and the light perfect for identifying waders at range which gave us Spotted Redshank, about 50 Snipe, Grey Plover, Ruff, Lapwings, 20 Dunlin and a couple of Ringed Plovers.  There were plenty of dabblers and Great Egrets and flights of Barnacle Geese moved across the landscape where White-tailed Eagles periodically appeared. 





The homestead gardens were alive with five thrushes and it still felt odd to keep finding Mistle Thrushes with these migrating flocks – it is just not something we see at home.  There were pasty orange Robins lurking and the odd Chiffchaff hu-weeting while a Great Grey Shrike flew over as we were trying to board the vans and hovered for long enough to get the camera back out and pointed in the right direction!


Great Grey Shrike






We had dinner at the lovely Tänava farmstead where the home cooking was excellent but we almost had an indoor Nutcracker as I attempted to decapitate myself on a low door whilst carrying a pot of homemade Sea Buckthorn Mustard but somehow my thick skull was undented and the condiment remained largely in the jar and in my hand.

A final drive around the lanes gave us no Ural Owls on a dark Haeska forest track or large furry cats either but it had been a fabulous day and the morning session alone would remain with everyone for a very long time.

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