After a swift breakfast we left good and early and headed up
into the hills and within an hour had arrived at Ayn Tabraq where a spring
bubbles up and wends its way sinuously through the Ficus groves. We pulled up by a ford but did not get out. There was an outside chance of Arabian
Golden-winged Grosbeak dropping on for a drink so we stayed put and watch the
comings and goings in complete solitude.
It was not too long after dawn and it took a little while to get going
but then the birds started to pile in
and we were afforded excellent views of a wealth of species.



Gangs of Abyssinian White-eyes would pluck up the courage to
come down for a bath in the clear water and at the time I was puzzled by the
almost sticky looking foreheads. They
were often joined by the similar sized African Silverbills, shining Palestine
Sunbirds and a variety of Chiffchaffs of which there were several gleaming
‘peeing’ Siberian and typical browny-olive looking Common Chiffchaffs that
included both huweeters and peepers once again.
It was fun!
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| Abyssinian White-eye |
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| Abyssinian White-eye |
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| Abyssinian White-eyes splashing in a puddle |
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| Abyssinian White-eyes |
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| Abyssinian White-eyes |
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| Abyssinian White-eyes |
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African Silverbill
|
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African Silverbill
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| Palestine Sunbird |
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| Palestine Sunbird |
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| Siberian Chiffchaff |
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| Siberian Chiffchaff |
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| Siberian Chiffchaff |
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| Siberian Chiffchaff |
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| Siberian Chiffchaff |
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| Siberian Chiffchaff - oddly no other Chiffchaff of any type posed at all |
Cinnamon-breasted Buntings came down and both White and Grey
Wagtails came and went and you know how much I like a Grey Wag. A pair of Arabian Sunbirds posed nicely and the
size difference between them and the Palestines was huge. A Red-breasted Flycatcher rattled and
quickly dropped in for a bath before having in preen in the bushes alongside
and flashing all its id features and lingered longer than the 1w Bluethroat
that popped out of the Persecaria briefly. It was not on my expected list for
this trip. An African Paradise Flycatcher came in too but did not come down to
drink. The head looked almost bruised
black in the sunlight.
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| Cinnamon-breasted Bunting |
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| Cinnamon-breasted Bunting |
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| Cinnamon-breasted Bunting |
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| Red-breasted Flycatcher |
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| Red-breasted Flycatcher |
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| Red-breasted Flycatcher |
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| Arabian Sunbird |
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| Arabian Sunbirds |
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| Arabian Sunbirds |
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| African Paradise Flycatcher |
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| Grey Wagtail |
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| Bluethroat |
A group of Ruppell’s Weavers arrived – a small species and
joined a couple of White-spectacled Bulbuls for liquid refreshment. Of the
Grosbeaks there was no sign but it really did not matter.
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| Ruppell’s Weaver |
When things quietened down we parked up and explored downstream
to a lush waterfall. The local Camels were already taking advantage of the
spring and shade and also had a regular neck rubbing bough that they were
saying hello to.
That branch belong to the towering Fig above which unlike
European Figs the fruit is produced from the trunk. They hung out of reach to me and even the
neck stretching camels but they tree was also full of birds and the origin of
the sticky orange foreheads of the White-eyes became clears as they joyfully
poked their heads into the soft fruit!
.JPG) |
| Ficus sycomorus |
Down on the ground the fallen figs were covered in clouds of
curious Stalk-eyed Flies. Not sure I
have ever seen one before. There were
Black Mollies, Garra of some sort and Tilapia of various sizes and scooting
around above them were a host of Odonata including Cherry Eyed Sprite which was
a new one. Some dark hawkers confused us
but apparently there are none!
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| Stalk-eyed Fly - Sphyracephala beccarii |
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| Red-winged Dropwing |
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| Violet Dropwing |
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| Broad Scarlet |
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| Cherry-eyed Sprite |
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| Epaulet Skimmer |
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| Common Citril |
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| Broad Scarlet |
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| Lang's Short-tailed Blue |
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| Plain Tiger |
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| Castor Oil Plant - Ricinus communis |
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| Frogfruit -Phyla nodiflora |
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| Lindenbergia indica |
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| Spotted Heart - Stictocardia tiliifolia |
.JPG) |
| Winged Treebine - Cissus quadrangularis |
.JPG) |
Winged Treebine - Cissus quadrangularis
|
.JPG) |
| Tilapia sp with a much larger species |
.JPG) |
| Tilapia sp |
Steve and Tom were after a couple of specialised Dragons and
so we wiggled out way out of the valley and through the dry foothills dotted
with Wheatears and Camels to the park at Ayn Hamran. A pair of Pallid Harriers, Long-legged
Buzzard, Hoopoe and Kestrels were also seen on the way.
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| Solarnum incanum |
There was a concrete ringed and shaded spring complete with
the prerequisite fish and dragonflies but not the Bladetail that they were
after. There was however another new one
and the concrete rills coming out of the spring had Ringed Cascaders cruising up
and down and I wondered if this was what we had seen at Ayn Tabraq.
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| A trio of Dropwings- Red-winged, Orange-winged and Violet Dropwings |
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| Epaulet Skimmer |
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| Violet Dropwing |
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| Red-winged Dropwing |
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| Orange-winged Dropwing |
Cinnamon-breasted Buntings were coming down to drink along
with Laughing Doves and in the shade we found Common Sandpipers, Silverbills, our
first trip Tree Pipit and a very obliging African Paradise Flycatcher. I could have spent more time there searching
the shady spots and flowing rills but we had places to be and soon moved on.
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| Cinnamon-breasted Bunting |
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| Common Sandpiper |
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| African Paradise Flycatcher |
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| African Paradise Flycatcher |
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| African Paradise Flycatcher |
A vague diversion across the vast sandy plain between the mountains
and the main road into Salalah gave us our first Black-crowned Sparrow-Larks
which flicked between silver and black as they danced across the sands. The female were perfectly matched for the
terrain and, like us, were squinting in the harsh light. They even seen to have ‘fat eyelids’ to cut
out more. There were Crested Larks too, a Long-billed Pipit, both Grey Shrikes
and the default Desert and Isabelline Wheatears.
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| Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark |
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| Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark |
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| Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark - Mrs Squinty |
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| Steppe Grey Shrike |
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| Steppe Grey Shrike |
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| Tea break transport |
Al Saadah Park back in town was our destination and even
before we pulled up we had spied a Grey-headed Kingfisher perched up on a
snag. Finding it in the park was
trickier as you would see a flash of electric blue wings and scarlet dagger of
a bill as it dashed low between the park trees. A party of Scaly-breasted
Munias were feeding on the grass and where the sprinklers were working there
were White Wagtails and several Western Yellows with some obvious Sykes (beema)
and rather oddly what looked like a classic male British Yellow (flavissima)? About 70 House Crows were making an awful racket but we
could not find anything trying to roost in the trees.
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| This certainly looks like a British male M f flavissima |
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| Syke's Wagtail (M f beema) |
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| Syke's Wagtail (M f beema) |
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Scaly-breasted Munias
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.JPG) |
| Gulmohar - Delnox regina |
It was now very hot so we made our way back. Once back in SalaIah I could see the sea gleaming and took myself down to the beach. It did not take too long to reach the hot sand and I thoroughly enjoyed my paddle through the Arabian surf. I did not even take my bins and only my camera and enjoyed watching the gulls and a few waders while the waves tickled my toes and small little conical molluscs were repeatedly revealed by each wave only to flip out a foot and wiggle back under cover once again! There are huge signs all the way along the coast about not entering the sea for your own safety but nothing explaining the risk. I was unsure whether it was a viscous undertow, sharks, sea snakes or some other unseen threat!
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| Caspian Tern and Heuglin's Gull |
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| Curlew |
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| Curlew, Caspian Tern and Black-headed Gull |
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| Wiggly-foot Cone Shell - well that's what I'm calling it |
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| Redshanks and a Marsh Sandpiper on the beach |
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| Sooty Gull |
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| Slender-billed Gulls |
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| Greenshank |
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| Greenshank |
I came back further up the beach where Crested Larks and Desert
Wheatears were trying their best to keep to the shady areas under the beach palms.
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| Desert Wheatear |
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| Crested Lark |
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| Crested Lark |
After a much needed nap we headed north down the beach from
the Khawr Ad Dahariz and spent the rest of the afternoon working away along around
all the smaller khawrs that do not quite make to the sea. The Glossy Ibis flock
was as spectacular as previous days and we found Purple Herons and several
Squaccos. All the terns were seen and on
a well vegetated water there were quite a few more Coots, Moorhens, Little Grebes,
Shoveler, Teal and even another two Wigeon. Ospreys and Marsh Harriers were continuously on patrol.
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| Glossy Ibis |
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| Glossy Ibises, Stilts and a Western Reef Egret |
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| Osprey |
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| Osprey |
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| Osprey |
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| Osprey |
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| Osprey |
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| Marsh Harrier |
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| Marsh Harrier |
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| Squacco and BHGs |
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| Little Stint |
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| Dunlin |
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| Little Stint |
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| Common Sandpiper |
Large flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse were heading to
a favoured watering spot and were arriving from various inland directions while
two big flocks of Ruff shot through low, looking like Sandgrouse at first
glance. There were plenty of small birds
too with several Northern Wheatears joining the default Issys and Deserts and
four Shrikes with both Greys and Red-tails.
Citrine Wagtails were around the margins while the flava Wagtails were
running around the huge plate feet of the numerous Camels but they were not all
Syke’s with two very smart male Grey-headeds amongst them.
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| Camel, Grey-headed Wagtail and the Arabian Sea |
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Only hours old
|
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| Isabelline Wheatear |
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| Desert Wheatear |
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| Desert Wheatear |
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| Grey-headed Wagtail(M f thunbergi) |
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| Grey-headed Wagtail (M f thunbergi) |
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| Daurian Shrike (imho) |
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| Daurian Shrike (imho) |
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| Turkestan Shrike (imho) |
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Turkestan Shrike (imho)
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| Arabian Shrike |
As we neared the Ad Dahariz we spied two Small Pratincoles
on the closest edge of the water not 20 feet away but the joy did not last long
as inevitably one of the numerous locals walked in front of us and down to the edge
spooking the birds. Evening beach life
is seemingly such a huge part of Omani life and the birds are seemingly used to
being periodically moved around. We
watched them hawking for ten minutes and Stinky #2 popped back to the flat to pick
up Stinky #1 who was roosting.
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| Small Pratincole |
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| Small Pratincole |
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| Small Pratincole - I saw one in Sri Lanka in 2024 but it never showed off these wings! |
Thankfully they were still on the wing when they returned
and we all enjoyed them aerobatically swooping in and out of the gulls and terns
on fancily pied wings. They then plopped down right in front of us for a prime
photo shoot. A truly tiny Pratincole in
subtle dove greys with a peachy-apricot flush on the front. They would periodically tail pump and head
bob and were always watching out for a microscopic flying morsel to nip up for.
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Small Pratincole - what a magnificent little wader
|
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| The regular Western Reef Egret fed in the shallows jus a few feet away |
With the light fading we walked away from them and made our
way back to base before heading down to the very posh Crowne Plaza for their
extensive buffet dinner. It was a different world to the one we had been
enjoying all week in every single way. You can only ‘get’ alcohol in five star
hotels in Oman and I did indulge in a g’n’t but the thought of splashing out on
a bottle of bubbly was truly terrifying!
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| The Tattinger & Moet worked out at £468.42 a bottle and the Dom a snip at £950.42... |
We walked around the grounds afterwards looking very dodgy
with our torches as we searched for Spotted Thick-knees. They eluded us but we did see some large
Egyptian Fruit-Bats licking sap from the leaves of a fig tree which they did so
by crashing into a leaf, hanging on, sticking out a long pink tongue and then
dropping back to conduct another circuit.
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| Egyptian Fruit-Bat |