Tuesday, 13 January 2026

Lesvos - Day 1 - 13th January 2026

A bargainous opportunity to get to Lesvos out of season was snapped up and having never been in the heart of the winter before it seemed too good a chance to miss.  We arrived on Lesvos late last night via Athens after a smooth travel day.  It was bitterly cold with windchill well below freezing and as we left Mytilene and dropped down towards the Gulf of Jera it started to snow but thankfully it did not last and by the time we arrived in Skala Kallonis it was clear and dry.

My day began with a walk to the bakers (they were surprised to see me!) with Robins ticking all around, Black Redstarts shivering their tails probably without trying and Sardinian Warblers rattling away.



Shopping then back for breakfast and a walk around part of the very nicely flooded Kalloni Pool.  It was covered in Teal and I counted 220 which was made easier by a female Marsh Harrier nudging them.  Despite the early winter fire I doubt the pool will look any different by the time we all come back in April.  If only it could be cleared and channels cut.  They are working on the pavement on the seaward side and there seems to be new culverts on the beach so perhaps they are considering reopening it to the sea?


Teal

Teal

The Bay held a couple each of Black-necked and Great Crested Grebes and there were two Sandwich Terns and a Slender-billed Gull patrolling. 


Sandwich Tern

Back on the pool there were numerous Common Chiffchaffs including both huweeting abientinus and peeping brevirostris types not that you could tell them apart on plumage.  Cetti’s Warbler called and flicked and there were more Robins and Black Redstarts.  There is such a different feel to things this time of year.

Black Redstart

brevirostris Chiffchaff - heard it calling


 Sardinian Warbler

Sardinian Warbler

My only other early visit was at the very end of February and start of March with so many of the wintering species being ones simply absent by mid-April.  Hopefully I would find some additional ones this time round.

From here we made our way down to the Tsiknias and videoed the drive along the western bank of the river.  The affects of the flash flood in November were all too obvious.

The approach from town was fine and the bandstand view was all good although the structure itself will be in the river before too long.  There were about 80 Cormorants and a few Black-headed Gulls at the end and the sandbar has now reformed.



A few hundred yards along there has been serious collapse of the bank removing half the track. Farmers are using it and you can get by but it is a little hairy and I suspect that it will collapse further with continued traffic. I would not fancy it with the weight of a minibus and will not be going back that way this trip.

From here on it was ok to the lower ford but although the concrete ford is intact there is no current way across with very deep silt on the way down and rocks on way up - tractor only! They next section is where the major breach occurred and it has already been built up and is drivable to the main road although looking at the Eastern side there looks like a couple of dodgy sections there too.



Hopefully by the spring some remedial work will have been carried but do remember that these tracks are for the local farmers and residents and getting them drivable for us in the spring will not be a prime concern. You can of course use your legs and just walk it from town or drive in and park up safely.  As for birds, well, there were none – not a single feathered thing on the whole river despite the water.  The inland fields have largely been trashed although it was good to see that some had already been worked all that fertile silt worked back in.  There were a few Green and Goldfinches and a party of 21 Crested Larks.  What seemed to be a plain dark Steppe Buzzard was perched up on a telegraph pole.

Down to the ford?  umm - no



Crested Lark

Crested Lark

With no way across I continued to the main road and headed to the Kalloni Salt Pans.  A good look from Hide 3 gave me many vibrant Flamingos – some were very richly coloured on the head along with Great Egrets and a flock of 180 Black-headed Gulls.  Nine Grey Plover were lined up on one bank and 14 Lapwings were along another.  I had only seen one here before so that was pleasing.

Greater Flamingo

Greater Flamingo

Great Egret

Black-headed Gulls 

Marsh Harriers quartered and a male Goshawk dashed through and not long afterwards a male Hen Harrier hunted low over the fields before slipping back towards the river.  Hopefully I will see him again.  A Zitting Cisticola popped up and there were flocks of Meadow Pipits sitting on the fences and I could hear Reed Bunting and Skylark too.  Three birds there that I have never seen in April.

Three Starlings flew by and although wet, the only birds on the Alykes Wetlands were two Ruddy Shelducks and three Grey Herons.  Two Black Storks circled back towards town. Ravens seemed to be heading towards the saltpans and I counted 21 during the rest of the visit.

The salt pile is huge and gleaming at the moment and the Ravens were having fun playing on it.  Some of the sounds they were making were wondrous – popping, clicking and a musical twanging sound that I just can’t replicate!


Raven

Raven

Raven

Down at the end, the Alykes Sheepfields were also wet (and still lacking sheep) and were covered in duck and I counted 260 Wigeon, 40 Mallard, 24 Shoveler, six Gadwall, four Pintail and 40 Teal but I suspect that many more were hiding in the grasses. There were 21 Ruddy Shelduck and 46 Common Shelduck and even another 44 Lapwings which of course I checked for anything rarer.

Great Egret

Hazymation Pelicans

Lapwings, Wigeon and a Ruddy Shelduck

Ruddy Shelducks


Two Dalmatian Pelicans were on the floods and scanning around took the total up to at least 14 including one immature that tried to sneak over my head.  It still always amazes me that counting mobile Pelicans is so difficult. Some of the adults were in full breeding plumage with curly crowns and vivid orange bills.  I hope to get closer to them I the coming days.  There were more Great Egrets and Black Stork looking fed up with the cold.

Dalmatian Pelican


Dalmatian Pelican

Dalmatian Pelican

A large mixed flock of Linnets, Green and Goldfinches were out with the donkeys and amongst the seven Stonechats was a striking 1w male that ticked all the boxes (including underwing coverts) for a Siberian but I could not get close enough to it to get any shots.  There were more Meadow Pipits and another group of six Skylarks and a Water Pipit flew around calling before disappearing back towards the beach.

Meadow Pipit

The light breeze had dropped and the Bay was dotted with birds which were a little hazy but still identifiable and I counted 12 Great Crested and six Black-necked Grebes and 21 Red-breasted Mergansers, some of which were displaying.  An adult Med Gull and two Sandwich Terns flew by and groups of breeding plumaged sinensis Cormorants headed in snaky ‘V’s towards the pans.




Red-breasted Mergansers

There were Black Redstarts around the race track fence and Crested Larks and more Mipits were running around.

Black Redstart

Late lunch beckoned – soup and koulouri and then back out towards Metochi passing three Snipe on the Christou on the way while Cirl and Reed Bunting were in the Aegeon bushes with Blue and Great Tits, my first Blackbird of the trip and another Zitting Cisticola.  The track into Metochi was ok and it was good to see the olive groves with a lush green carpet of grass under them. 

There were flocks of Chaffinches feeding under them and a few House Sparrows and a flock of Corn Buntings came up and sat plumply on the wires. Metochi itself was full but only held Moorhens, Coots and Little Grebes but Cetti’s and Sardinian Warblers were noisy in the margins where Robins ticked.





Around at the rocky slope I heard a Western Rock Nuthatch and there were several Cirl Buntings and plenty of Chaff and Goldfinches.  Blackcaps seems to be everywhere and there was lots of sub-singing too and I do not remember that many on my previous early trip.  Song Thrushes bolted fro cover as I walked along but I am still after my first Lesvos Redwing. I was amazed to see a Winter Damselfly and Painted Lady.


Corn Bunting

Onwards, passing calling Middle-spotted Woodpeckers in the groves and seeing two more Sparrowhawks.  I do wonder if the autumn influx birds actually stay for the winter as I saw five during this first day.

A quick check of the Old Potamia Reservoir gave me singles of Coot, Black-necked Grebe and Great Egret but no tiny Cormorants.  Cetti’s Warblers called every few yards. 


Black-necked Grebe and Great Egret

With the day fading it was back to the Christou where a flock of 18 Serins was by the turn off and unlike on the run out, there were now plenty of waders to look at.  A flock of 94 Golden Plover hunkered down and I suspect there were more while 52 Kentish and six Ringed Plover were settled nearby with 31 Dunlin and 22 Little Stints actively feeding around them.  All the Dunlin were long billed birds like those I recently saw in Oman.  There were 21 Redshank, four Greenshank and three Grey Plovers too and a Green Sandpiper was put up by both a Marsh Harrier and Sparrowhawk.


Essence of Golden Plover flock and friends


White Wagtails were coming in for a last minute feed on the now green ‘Stone-curlew field’ before heading towards the reedbed where a distant Water Rail could be heard.  Hooded Crows had started to head the other way towards town signalling the end of my day too.

Great Egret


Great Egret


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