Blue Eyed Birder: Mallorca for Oriole Birding 17th

17^th September

It was a smooth flight from Stansted and the crew of five assembled at my seemingly random pin drop in good order and the processing of our hire van was equally speedy which saw us on he road and heading east towards the Aumallia spa and hotel earlier than I had anticipated after the debacle of last year! It was also not nearly 40c but somewhere pleasantly in the mid-twenties.

It was a quiet journey with just a few Red Kites and a solitary Western Cattle Egret along the way and before too long we were slowly working our way through the little lanes to our retreat for the week.

There was time for a chill and refresh before heading out for a stroll. A Nightingale hopped around outside some of the rooms and Sardinian Warblers quietly fed in the Bougainville before giving a sudden scolding rattle.

We started with Spotted Flycatchers with the House Sparrows in the citrus grove and once out in the open we scanned the fields and rolling vista from the mound which quickly gave us our first melodious Thekla’s Larks and the inevitable Wood Pigeons. There were a few insects with a ‘Small’ White, Wall Brown and Painted Lady and a Clouded Yellow that landed on Shirley. A Red-winged Grasshopper did its best to stay hidden in the open and a Vestal moth was also found.

Red-winged Grasshopper

Vestal

Sky scanning gave us four Cinereous Vultures which was a pleasant way to start and we quickly added several Booted Eagles of both phases, Red Kites and a Kestrel. A Zitting Cisticola flew silently by and then called from the hedge and a juvenile Balearic Woodchat Shrike was sat up on top of a scraggy tree showing the lack of wing patch diagnostic of this form. There were Stonechats and the odd Whinchat and Northern Wheatear dotted around and Tree Pipit called but like the Cirl Buntings was difficult to pin down.

Booted Eagle

Cinereous Vulture

Balearic Woodchat Shrike

Cetti’s Warblers shouted from dry hedges where Sardinian Warblers rattled and Chiffchaff and Blackcap were added to the heard list along with Long-tailed Tit. Fortunately the Firecrests were more accommodating and showed very nicely.

Autumn Grape Hyacinth - Muscari parviflorum

Mastic

Iberian Holm Oak - Quercus rotundifolia

There were Flycatchers here too but they were silky white and plain underneath, cold milky above with a pale crown with streaks suggesting that they were Mediterranean Flycatchers.

Sand Martins and Swallow were whizzing through low and the sky was darkening and we made it back as the first rain spots fell which were a prelude for a raging thunderstorm that sat over us for over an hour but it had been a grand way to start the tour while wailing Stone-curlews during dinner was fine distraction.

18^th September

This time of year, an early start is not especially so and we assembled down at the viewing mound at about 0715 as the first light was creeping across the landscape. The Stone-curlews were calling well and seemed to be on the other side of the hotel and as usual evaded our eyes. The farmland slowly came to life with clucking Blackbirds and Thekla’s Larks, agitated Red-legged Partridges and clacking Stonechats. The Zitting Cisticolas called in the Fennel stalks below us and Yellow Wagtails flew over calling. Cirl and Corn Buntings started up and Redstarts could be heard calling across the field where Wood Pigeons clattered from the Carob trees.

Equally early rising ballooners

The first Bee-eaters could be heard way up in the lightening sky but remained invisible but an Osprey was very obvious as it powerfully headed high towards the coast.

It was soon time for breakfast and we walked back through the gardens where a Med Flycatcher posed nicely and Blackcaps tacked.

Fed and watered and soon on the road and slowly driving back up to the main road passing our first Turtle Dove, more Flycatchers and a perched up Thekla’s Lark on the way. A group of Western Cattle Egrets were seen in Felanitx.

Our route took us south to the salt works at Salobar de Campo. It was a very frustrating visit as the lagoon were perfect water wise but all the waders were out of site on the most distant pans and we had to be content with some Kentish Plovers (including two yellow ringed birds), a calling Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper, a small group of whizzing Little Stints and a flock of Ruff and four Black-winged Stilts that were pushed up briefly by a powering adult female Peregrine.

We only saw three flying Flamingos and even they stayed low and soon dropped back out of view and there were no heronry things whatsoever! There were Zitters, Sardinian Warblers and Stonechats dotted around and little pulses of Swallows and Sand Martins going through while Red Kites and Kestrels were constantly on view along with several Marsh Harriers and a pale Booted Eagle.

As for the mud – of my was it squidgy and by the time we retraced our steps were had all gained some considerable foot weight but somehow we all remained standing or thereabouts. There were no dragonflies or butterflies this time but we did see a fabulously large Darkling Beetle by the name of Blaps gigas!

Blaps gigas

Once we had divested ourselves of foot ornaments we moved off and I attempted to follow a route through to another lagoon but regardless of my direction of approach, all the routes ended up being private, gated roads and so I continued down to the coast at the Far de Cap de ses Salinas passing a very obliging verge side Hoopoe on the way in.

This is one of the premier migration points on the island but no raptors at all were moving but we did see a fantastic flock of at least 60 Bee-eaters that swirled in to view in a wall of throaty pruuking before turning out of a spiral and making a determined effort to at least get to Cabrera that we could see offshore. Smiles all round.

Sardinian Warblers were the only warblers in the coastal squat pine, Juniper and Mastic scrub and Thekla’s Larks and singles of Stonechat and Northern Wheatear were the only other passerines seen.

Super distant Scopoli’s Shearwaters did their thing way out but thankfully the Audouin’s Gulls that we saw were all hugging the rocky shoreline and one obligingly perched up for us all to see well. Painted Lady was the only butterfly and a couple of Lesser Emperors were patrolling before we escaped from the heat and returned to the van.

Rock Samphire

Audouin’s Gull

Stonechat

European Bee-eaters

European Bee-eaters - the only ones we saw all week

Finding a shady spot for lunch was almost impossible so I kept gong and we made our way north and up into the hills (passing a very low Cinereous Vulture on the way) on our way to the Castell de Santueri where at last a spot was found to pull over and eat. The woods were very quiet but I did find a fab female Jumping Spider.

Aelurillus balearus - a female I reckon

Up at the top the Crag Martins became part of the epic view back towards the coast and a male Blue Rock Thrush made occasional sorties along the castle cliff face. Nightingales croaked below us and up above a pair of pale Booted Eagles were very vocal and their posturing was to try and keep away three other higher flying Booteds that I suspect were not locals.

While some of watched Eagles, Max, Shirley and Mike walked up into the castle grounds.

We were even treated to the amazing sight of a death spiral where two eagles talon grappled and then spun hundreds of feet towards the ground in a game of who will let go first. They dropped below the tree line and we never saw either bird reappear…

Booted Eagle

From here it only took 20 minutes to get back to Aumallia but longer than that to drive the lanes on the way in due to stops of flocks of Turtle Doves, lemon rumped Serins and the odd flycatcher.

The Nightingale greeted me back by our rooms and the Stone-curlews were once again very vocal during another lovely dinner and even flew overhead but just out of our line of sight.

We shall try and tomorrow.

19^th September

Up with the lark – well the Scops Owl and Stone-curlews for another calm still morning. The Wailing Heath Chickens were particularly noisy and we followed them back up onto the road and to the vineyard and there they were standing around between the line of vines, yellow legs glowing in the first rays of morning and big staring eyes looking like they had been out on the razz all night and needing some much needed shut eye. At least ten were counted strutting around which was a relief for me having not been able to find even one all week last year!

Stone-curlew

There was plenty of Red-legged Partridge activity and it is actually sad that you pay them more attention and appreciate their plumage more when you know they are ‘wild’ and not from released stock like back home. I have now been lucky enough to see RLP, Chukar and Rock Partridges in Europe this year. Two Iberian Hares played chase across the fields.

Red-legged Partridge

There were a few more Spot Flys around and a single Pied was noted along with Whinchat and Wheatear once again. A Dunnock peeped from the hedge and as we walked back a Wryneck started singing from a distant hedge. He was probably sat in the top in the sunshine but we were out of time. Amazingly another responded alongside us and this one was seen perched up before moving a little closer and singing out of view. I find it odd that these autumn Wrynecks actively sing (rather than call) and yet back home you very rarely get a squeak out of one. Anyway, a real bonus bird and always one that we want to try and find.

Another fine breakfast and then out off we went but only as far as the haunt of the Vine-curlews which gave the rest of the crew the chance to see them too. Another Wryneck was singing just around the corner so there had obviously been an arrival and Thekla’s Larks were dotted around us.

It was a fairly uneventful drive up north to Can Picafort and the s’Albufera marshes passing Cattle Egrets and Red Kites on the way.

I managed to get parked up in my secret little spot and begin the steady walk down to the visitors centre. It was hot but manageable and we began with Audouin’s Gulls down at the river mouth and big Mullet cruising the waterways and leaping with fishy abandon.

Atlantic Blue Crabs were squabbling in the shallow margins and dozing Night Herons were found in the waterside Mastic Trees with at least 11 seen. Almost all were full adults. There were a couple of Little Egrets but last year’s egretry was empty.

Atlantic Blue Crab

Flat-head Mullet I believe

Night Heron - Shirley Russell

Kingfishers called frequently but I think they were on the opposite side of the far bank. A lone Cormorant was the only one we saw and Water Rails kipped and squealed as we walked down but the only warblers were Cetti’s and Sardinians.

After a quick freshen up we braved the first hide. As usual the light was poor and the air stale and stinky but there were plenty of birds to be seen with about a hundred ‘brown’ Teal and Shoveler along with a few Mallard and a smart stripy faced Garganey and a few young Shelduck.

Greater Flamingos came and went and four Glossy Ibis probed around. Grey Herons and Little Egrets were in the edges and there was a single Cattle Egret too.

Glossy Ibis

Cattle Egret, Teal, Shoveler, Garganey & Shelduck

Thankfully there were Purple Swamphens with several adults while a young bird was demonstrating its foot prowess on juicy grass stem just below the hide. Snipe were busy working like sewing machines and a Curlew Sandpiper was with three Dunlin while two Greenshank flew off without us noticing. A single Kentish Plover was the only other wader but once outside we heard a Little Ringed Plover and more Ibis began to whiffle in.

Purple Swamphen

More refreshment and then onwards. A Sardinian Warbler slowed our already snailish pace down further and a that point I heard the call of Penduline Tit. It stridently called a few time but was on the heavily overgrown side channel and I just could not find it so we walked to the bridge and looked back. No joy but there were two Pied Flycatchers and a Spot Fly using dead trees and suitable attack points to snaffle an avian offering. A Little Bittern called several times and Paul saw it break cover and fly further into the reeds.

From the next bridge a Kingfisher offered itself up for a short while in an overhand before flying straight at us while a Euro Pond Terrapin was a good find while we were checking Coot for anything slightly out of place.

Unfortunately the side trail to the hides overlooking the saline lagoon was closed and the next viewpoint really did not cut it and we had to be content with Black-winged Wobbly Stilts, Hazycets and Greenygrey Whiteyshanks along with Great Floppy Egrets and the ‘Just about Brown and White Large Diving Raptor’. Nevermind.

It was now somewhat warm and approaching 1pm so we retreated for lunch at the centre hearing and then seeing a second Little Bittern on the way that actually stayed put once found, long enough to get the scope on to before clambering up through the Giant Reed stems escaping out the back.

Lunch was shared with the local House Sparrows and a fine Swallowtail came in for a circuit. Amazingly it was the only butterfly that we saw and the only dragons were few Lesser Emperor and at least one Vagrant Emperor. The local Bat surveyors showed us some Soprano Pipistrelles in their nest box and little wibbly noses could be seen looking down on us!

A juvenile Mediterranean Flycatcher showed incredibly well – well that’s what I think it was before we walked back to the van pleased with our efforts.

Mediterranean Flycatcher imho

White-banded Grasshopper - Eyprepocnemis plorans

From here I headed to the southern part of the reserve which overlooks the sewage treatment works. A Hoopoe flew ahead of us as we walked down and amongst the throng of Sand Martins were a few Swallows, House Martins and Red-rumped Swallows.

Zitting Cisticolas bounced alongside us and from the tower platform you get a real idea of just how huge the extent of the reed bed and pool system is here. Marsh Harriers and Red Kites quartered and an adult Purple Heron was the first of the trip while on the settling pools there were Coots, Moorhens, Mallard, Teal, Shoveler and three new water birds with two female Pochard, Gadwall and a Little Grebes.

Golden Samphire - Limbarda crithmoides

Squirting Cucumber - Ecballium elaterium

There were Greenshanks, Green Sandpipers and Common Sandpipers around the edges and several Yellow-necked Sliders were hauled out. With the day slipping away we headed back to Aumallia with not much bar some showy Red-legged Partridges and a couple of Cirl Buntings once we came off the main road.

It had been a long day and a beer beckoned.

20^th September

An early breakfast and then swiftly west but not before hearing several Wrynecks around the car park area at Aumallia! Being a Sunday meant a painless journey to and around Palma and we made good time getting to St Elm for our 1015 boat to Dragonera. Tiny zooming Eleonora’s Falcons could be seen zooming around the towering cliffs and over the central peak and after fifteen minutes bobbing, we too were on the island famous for its inquisitive Lilford’s Wall Lizards who, as usual were there to greet you once you made it off the quay.

Lilford’s Wall Lizard welcome party

Lilford’s Wall Lizard

The crew had a pleasant walk along the gently climbing coastal path but as before, at that pace there is no way to reach the far end and those cliffs in the time we had on the island. Small birds were few and far between with just the regular scolding of Sardinian Warblers and a few Greenfinches but thankfully our main quarry of Balearic Warbler soon gave themselves up and we had excellent views if a pair as they fed in the low bushes, flashing red eyes and tangerine legs.

Balearic Warbler

Wood Pigeon

Up above us Eleonora’s Falcons cut graceful shapes through the azure sky while a group of three Peregrines were useful as shape comparisons. I think it was two juveniles and an adult. Kestrels hovered and a pale Booted Eagle hung over the ridge line where a couple of Ravens tumbled.

A stop at the shady bench resulted in Max, Caz and Roger getting clambered over by the inquisitive Lizards!

Caz and Max being stalked

Roger was not quite sure about having his eyeballs licked!

It was soon time to retrace our steps to the harbour where Spotted and Pied Flycatchers and a very buzzy vocal Iberian Yellow Wagtail were found and once we had checked for stowaway lizards we bobbed our way back to St Elm where a well deserved ice-cream awaited. This was followed with a pale orangey male Balearic Crossbill in the pines by the where I had parked just like last year and a Griffon Vulture circling above!

Sea Squill - Drimia maritima

Thick-leaved Stonecrop - Sedum dasyphyllum

Joint-Pine - Ephedra fragilis

Dragonera Sea Lavender - Limonium dragonericum

Rocky Violet - Hippocrepis balearica

Western Prickly Juniper - Juniperus oxycedrus

Med Spurge - Euphorbia characias

Spurge Olive - Cneorum tricoccon

Young Mullett

Saddled Sea-bream - Oblada melanura

St Elm ice-cream session - Paul Davies

We found a shady spot for lunch and then came back to Aumallia with only a gang of 23 Ravens to break the journey. An pre-prandial amble gave us 14 stirring Stone-curlews and five Turtle Doves amongst the vines and a frosty Med Flycatcher in the Almond groves beyond. Two Clouded Yellows, Painted Lady and three Lang’s Short-tailed Blues were an improvement on the lack of butterflies.

Peruvian Pepper Tree - Schinus molle

Red KIte

Stone-curlew

Sharp-leaved Asparagus - Asparagus acutifolius

Grey Asparagus - Asparagus horridus

Tree Aeonium - Aeonium arboreum

Lang’s Short-tailed Blue

Mallow Bindweed - Convolvulus althaeoides

The Stone-curlews did their best as usual to disrupt dinner but were outdone but the Scops Owl that at last chose to come and join us. It kept out of sight but we did see it sneak between trees. The Moorish Geckos were big enough not to be worried about the Owl!

Moorish Gecko

21^st September

The pre-breakfast stroll gave us 13 Stone-curlews and a single Turtle Dove while one of the Wrynecks was annoyingly singing again from the far hedge.

It was a travel north day and the Serra de Tramuntana beckoned and after navigating our way around a few hill climbing cyclists we go to the Motritx Vineyard for our walk. It began excellently and the Evergreen Oaks were full of energetic Firecrests that bounded around off tree trunks, stone walls and wires. The views were exceptional. A Robin ticked from cover and gave a little bit of song and a glance up gave us the first Griffon of the day which was soon followed by another five in a spiral along with a pair of Booted Eagles.

Firecrest

Firecrests

Griffons

Griffon

Cirl Buntings tantalised and a male Sardinian Warbler actually stopped long enough to be watched before we arrived at the first opportunity to scan the ridge for raptors. A pair of Cinereous Vultures were sat up on the very top and there were Griffs at the other end where microscopic Crag Martins could also be seen but there was no sign of the hoped for Bonelli’s Eagles at this stage.

Sardinian Warbler

Tree Spurge - Euphorbia dendroides

Sarsaparille - Smilax aspera

Wild Madder - Rubia peregrina

We dropped down into the oaks and found Blue and Great Tits and more Firecrests and Blackcaps before the calls of Redstarts drew us further on and two were playing chase under the trees. They became the first of about six seen here. A Hoopoe head bobbed across the parched ground and there were Med, Spotted and Pied Flycatchers too.

Redstart

The pungent old wine smell of the grape must wafted our way and the run off from the huge pile of spent grapes had created a large puddle which amazingly had attracted Dragonflies. There were about ten pairs of tandem Red-veined Darters ovipositing in it along with several Common Darters (which looked a little skinny and red to my eye), two Lesser Emperors and to my amazement a male Orange-winged Dropwing, a species which I first saw last December in Oman. I had heard that they had been seen in mainland Spain but did not know that there had been a few sightings in Mallorca since 2021 (thanks Roy). Singles of Cleopatra and Red Admiral were the only Butterflies seen.

Common Darter

Red-veined Darters

Red-veined Darter

Orange-winged Dropwing

Facing the ridge behind us once again was very productive with excellent views of both the Vultures and then Caz picked up the pair of Bonelli’s Eagles and it was early enough in the day to negate the heat haze and we all got fabulous views as they patrolled the escarpment. The contrasts underneath and the pale central area of the back really stood out. Feral Goats dotted the top and a Blue Rock Thrush preened on a pinnacle and was clearly identifiable despite the distance.

Griffon Vulture

Cinereous Vulture

Bonelli’s Eagle

We availed ourselves of some shade amongst the ancient twisted Olives and kept watching the escarpment where all three main targets reappeared and behind us we found more Flycatchers and Redstarts, Chiffchaff and our first two Willow Warblers of the tour. A Nightingale croaked and even gave a few second of song while a Cirl Bunting almost gave itself up.

Euphorbia pithyusa

Eristalinus taeniops - one of my favourite Euro-Hovers

Retracing our steps gave us more views of most of the small stuff and over the vineyards there were hawking House Martins with a few each of Sand Martin and both Barn and Red-rumped Swallows.

Some of the crew popped in for a quick wine tasting and purchase before we loaded up and continued up into the mountains with its stunning limestone scenery. Lunch was taken at the Mirador de Pedra en Sec complete with Crossbills and a huge view down onto the plains followed generously by ice-cream at the Acueducto de Escorca before a stop at the Gorg Blau where three Mallard and a Cormorant were on the depleted reservoir but the skies were quite empty with just a pale Eleonora’s Falcon, a flock of Ravens and another incredibly distant Blue Dot Thrush.

Mirador de Pedra en Sec

Acueducto de Escorca

Gorg Blau

From here we enjoyed a leisurely drive down the south side of the mountains and wormed our way back across the plains where our Aumallia dinner was calling us.

22^nd September

Being out just after the very first glimmer of light gave us the advantage of seeing the Stone-curlews heading over Aumallia to their day roost in the vineyard. They were particularly noisy and one in the field below us remained invisible until it flew before settling down into the tiny set aside strip in the middle! The Wryneck was calling again in the distance and the Red-legged Partridges were making sure that everyone was now up and about followed by the Thekla’s Larks and Buntings.

Italian Cypress - Cupressus sempervirens

By 9am we were on the road and heading to a new spot having been tipped off by another couple of birders – Finca Son Real – a farming museum with the added value of Bronze age dwellings.

Decollate Snail - Rumina decollata

Milk Snail - Otala lactea

The fig grove held Northern Wheatears and Spotted Flycatchers and there were a couple of Hoopoes and Serins but the Hermann’s Tortoises evaded us and unfortunately only I saw a Two Tailed Pasha. However, a couple of Broad Scarlets were a lovely Ode addition and Ravens tumbled overhead.

Raven

Broad Scarlet

European Paper Wasp - Polistes dominula

Onwards to Albufereta on a circuitous route around all of Albufera Marshes which admittedly did give us some Glossy Ibises, Flamingos and a random female Pochard.

The walk down to the tower gave us a showy Hoopoe and some Serins but the pools, although full, were disappointing with just three Mallard from a wildfowl point of view and a selection of herony things that included 12 Grey Herons, a juvenile Purple Heron, 60 Cattle Egrets, two Little Egrets and a single Great Egret. No Ospreys were seen but a Booted Eagle circled and even hovered for a while.

Hoopoe

The trail to the saline lagoon was thankfully mosquito free this year but it looked that the only water on the lagoon was possibly from the recent rains. As such there were a good number of Kentish Plovers and a few Little Ringed Plovers and single of Green and Common Sandpiper but there were no Flamingos or wildfowl. A pile of Cattle Egrets were over the back and some very shimmery Stone-curlews were in the herbage.

Kentish Plover

Little Ringed Plover

We walked back through the pines for lunch seeing Pied Flycatcher on the way and after eating we ambled over the road and down onto the beach where a carpet of Sea Daffodils were flowering within the protected zone. A paddle was taken just to test how wonderfully warm the water was…

Sea Daffodil - Pancratium maritimum

Sea Holly - Eryngium maritimum

The Tribbles from furthest Greece have made it here!

With out temperature experiment complete we made our way back south and stopped once again at Albufera. We began well with an immature Med Shag on the rocks with a couple of Audouin’s Gulls before undertaking the walk down to the visitors centre and hide once again. It was still very hot and there was almost no one around and we had the Night Herons and Leaping Mullet (yes, they are an actual thing) to ourselves. Huge yellow finned Flat-head Mullet were cruising in the side canal.

Better views of the Atlantic Blue Crabs

The small hide now overlooked a much depleted lagoon and it was quite shocking just how much it had retracted. The light to the left was better though as it was much later and we picked out three Garganey with the Teal and Shoveler while the best part of 50 Glossy Ibis were around although most were on the back part which still had proper water.

Glossy Ibis

Glossy Ibis - Shirley Russell

Two Avocet and some Little Ringed Plovers were found and Snipe and Green Sandpiper added to the day list but it took a female Marsh Harrier to stir things up and flush and big flock of dabblers our way. Most were as expected but amongst them were two eclipse male Wigeon and a single Gadwall while 13 Shelduck arrived from the pools in the other direction where we could hear the kipping of Stilts.

Greater Flamingos

Shelduck, Shoveler and Black-headed Gulls

The young Purple Swamphen was outside once again and got seen off by a stroppy adult and it was good to watch practicing its secateur work and foot vegetation holding skills.

Western Purple Swamphen

With time getting on we started to walk back hearing several Water Rails and Zitting Cisticolas before the bend bridge where our first Violet Dropwing was found. Kingfishers seemed to be calling all the way back and a whiny call drew me to a juvenile Caspian Tern following its parent down the main canal towards the sea.

Violet Dropwing

We were all flagging but were pleased to have made the effort to revisit this amazing reserve.

23^rd September

An early breakfast and then off down to Colonia de Sant Jordi where we collected our tickets and boarded our boat out to Cabrera although for a while it looked like we never leave port as the local Gardia decided to do a spot H&S check on the crew and vessel just a couple of minutes before we departed. Life jackets, flare guns, medical kits, driver permits and the like. Thankfully everything seemed in order despite much Gardia ‘Foldin' o' the Arms, the Tappin' o' the Feets and the Pursin' o' the Lips’ and we were only fifteen minutes late departing. A Turnstone became our first new trip bird of the day and a fine adult Med Shag stopped its morning ablutions just long enough for a shot of the emerald eye.

Med Shag

It was mercifully flat calm on the crossing for which Caz was very grateful but it also meant that Shearwaters were somewhat reluctant to get up and we saw several Scopoli’s on the water before two good fly by birds were had a close range. Other than that there were a few Audouin’s and Yellow-legged Gulls but nothing else until a shout for ‘Dolphins’ went up and we were lucky enough to have three small pods of Bottle-nosed come past the boat with one group being incredibly close. Such big and powerful animals.

Bottle-nosed Dolphin

We did not circumnavigate Cabrera this time but made our way straight into the bay which to be honest gave us more time to explore the island. It was stinky hot but we resisted starting at the taverna and after checking out some the fish in the harbour we made our way around the bay to the picnic sight at the far end.

East Atlantic Peacock Wrasse - Symphodus tinca

Five-spotted Wrasse - Symphodus roissali

Probably a young Flathead Grey Mullet - Mugil cephalus

Mediterranean Damselfish - Chromis chromis

Ornate Wrasse - Thalassoma pavo

White Sea Bream - Diplodus sargus

As last time it was basically birdless on the walk down with just a few Wood Pigeons and Sardinian Warblers and a family party of Balearic Warblers that showed very well if you were quick enough with your bins!

Red Admirals, Painted Ladies and Clouded Yellows flicked by and felt like purposeful migrants and the local cobalt blue throated race of Lilford’s Wall Lizards scurried to and fro. A Yellow-legged Gull posed on a rock and three Shags were snorkelling amongst the posh yachts.

Cabrera Lilford’s Wall Lizard

We settled into the picnic shelter with a Blue-headed type female Wagtail running around and several Common Redstarts were calling softly in the Mastic bushes where lemony Willow Warblers flicked.

Ephedra fragilis

Juniperus phoenicea

Aleppo pine - Pinus halepensis

A flock of tatty Spotless Starlings disappeared into the bushes and were presumably after the berries but never sat out for a proper look. It was fairly quiet to be honest but it was so tranquil and calming that none of us really cared.

Yellow-legged Gull

The sky was the brightest blue and cloudless and finding any passage raptors was going to be almost impossible. A couple of Common Kestrels were noted before a screaming Peregrine had us stepping out of the shade and squinting up. She was not too high but once it the bins we could see other birds higher up. It started with at least six scything Eleonora’s Falcons and above them was a spread out spiral containing ten Honey Buzzards and a Black Kite!

We would never have seen any of them with the Peregrine getting all defensive. Lunch was taken watching the Painted Ladies and a couple of immaculate Long-tailed Blues on the Common Heliotrope was interrupted by the Peregrine once again but this time she had gone up after something bigger. It took a minute to realise that it was an immature Bonelli’s Eagle and it was getting an absolute hammering from the falcon which repeatedly stooped on it causing some upside down talon waving. An Eleonora’s then got in on the action. As suspected this is an excellent record for Cabrera although I am not sure there is for a Bonelli’s to eat on here. A male Marsh Harrier drifted through with a young Honey Buzzard to complement our raptor tally.

Painted Lady

Long-tailed Blue

Firebug - Pyrrhocoris apterus

Kestrel

Marsh Harrier & Honey Buzzard

Bonelli’s Eagle & Peregrine

Bonelli’s Eagle & Peregrine - full flip

Bonelli’s Eagle & Peregrine - still upside down

Bonelli’s Eagle & Peregrine

Bonelli’s Eagle

Bonelli’s Eagle Falcon Sandwich

Pleased with our luck we ambled back as the lure of the taverna was too great. There were now more birds alongside the track and I suspect that they had drifted over the island during the morning and we found foraging Willow Warblers, Hoopoe, Northern Wheatear, Blackcap and a striding Tawny Pipit that was panting in the heat. Above us a young Marsh Harrier spiralled over unmolested but there was no such luck for the reappearance of the Bonelli’s Eagle as it had a very irate Eleonora’s Falcon in close attendance.

Tawny Pipit

Bonelli’s Eagle

Bordered Tortoise Beetle - Cassida vittata

While the crew had a beer I got myself an ice-cream and settled down on the harbourside and relaxed in the sun with my feet in the cooling, crystal clear water.

The boat was good to go at 2.15 and we made our way back into open water with flocks of annoyingly distant Scopoli’s Shearwaters way off on the horizon. This year the boat was taken all the way into the Blue Cave as the swell was manageable but I did not know that you could all throw yourselves overboard for a fifteen minute swim in the glowing azure water! We all sat there in our birding gear. Perhaps next time.

The rest of the trip back was smooth with just a couple closer Scopoli’s to add along with a drake Shoveler that took off from the sea, several Shags and Gulls and a frenzy of thrashing, leaping Bluefin Tuna!

Eight Little Egrets were making their way to Carbrera which was a little odd and a Kestrel headed the same way. I saw no Balearic Shearwaters but did see what looked like six Yelkouans sat on the sea which I had not expected.

Once back on land we may have accidentally veered into another ice-cream emporium before the drive back to Aumallia where dinner was interrupted by Stone-curlews and Scops Owls and then amazingly a Long-eared Owl flew above the courtyard and landed in a little bare tree for a short while before continuing its hunt for elusive Long-tailed Mallorcan Hamsters.

24^th September

Going home day and a lazy amble pre-breakfast gave a delightful farewell chorus of the expected cast of performers.

Afterwards we ambled off for a walk along the lanes which began with the pesky calling Wryneck as well as a Common Whitethroat and two Tree Sparrows to add to the list. The Thekla’s Larks were up and singing well and there seemed to be more Stonechats around while the House Sparrow flock on the grassy Almond grove was impressive and noisy.

Sardinian Warblers posed and the Stone-curlews glared at us grumpily and we even found some more along the track in another field where a pair of Cirl Buntings at last gave themselves up.

Cirl Buntings

Stone-curlews - Shirley Russell

The shaded pines gave us Firecrests and Hoopoe but it was just too hot so we turned tail and came back early with a Red Kite and Marsh Harrier circling together above us and distant Red-legged Partridges calling in the Carob groves.

Time to freshen up and re-pack before a chilled couple of hours and lunch before the drive back to Palma airport and home.

Of course such down time was accompanied by some avian delights with two amazingly low Cinereous Vultures and a single Griffon along with a couple of tiny looking Red Kites. There must have been a ‘dead thing’ very nearby given their altitude and distance from Serra de Tramuntana and it was a wonderful send off after another relaxing and enjoyable Mallorcan adventure.

Griffon Vulture

Cinereous Vultures and a Red Kite

Blue Eyed Birder

Saturday, 26 September 2026

Mallorca for Oriole Birding 17th - 24th September 2026

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