Quite simply put we spent the from eight till five on the Mu
Bwindi trail. It was a long descent
on a serviceable track down through the light and open forest with thick
undergrowth, Sunbird attracting flowers and towering trees. The trail was used
by Forest Elephants and Gorillas and there was ample evidence of both but
unsurprisingly none were seen although the feeling that the slopes around us
held such magnificent beasts gave a feeling of being somewhere very special
indeed. The damage from the passage of the latter was negligible with only some
sagging edges to suggest such massive creatures had crossed this way.
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Bark stripping by Elephants |
We took five hours to cover a good few kilometres to the
spot where we had lunch and to be honest we were all tired but happy but the thought
of another hour or so to get down to the swamp at the very bottom and back was
met with ‘no more down please.’
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Lunch view - more 'down' just beyond Rubina's head! |
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Relaxing Paul but always listening |
The forest was alive with birds the whole way with some now
familiar species we had seen over the last two days amongst a host of new
ones. Shouty Chubb’s Cisticola’s
and all four Apalis were in song and all showed very well and Banded
Prinias made up for yesterday with frequent energetic close views by the
path side.
Needless to say, finding the Grauer’s Broadbills was
a key part of this trek and our local guides did the business and found two
feeding high in the canopy before they dropped to a tree at eye level affording
much better views of this enigmatic leaf green bird with a powder blue
throat. If it did not move you would
never a have found it. At the lunch spot
some of the group trekked down a way off piste to the now abandoned nest site
where one of the parents was seen feeding a fledged youngster. To be honest I was suffering with my
breathing due to the elevation and needed to compose myself for the slow and
steady slog back uphill to the road afterwards.
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Grauer’s Broadbill |
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Grauer’s Broadbill - Roman Werpachowski |
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Grauer’s Broadbill - Roman Werpachowski |
But there was so much to see with African Citril Finch,
gaudy Brown Capped Weavers, Grey Chinned, Blue Headed, Regal
and Northern Double Collared Sunbirds, Rwenzori Hill Babblers
(amazingly it is actually a Sylvia warbler), Thick-billed Seedeaters, Mountain
White Eyes and Cardinal Woodpeckers on the slope below us while Mountain
Buzzards mewed above.
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Brown Capped Weavers |
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Cardinal Woodpecker |
There were many new Flycatchers with White-bellied
Crested, the angry looking Yellow-eyed Black and dull and dinky African
Dusky to go with African
Paradise, White-tailed Blue and White-eyed Slaty while Dwarf
Honeyguides were seen much better alongside a host of Greenbuls. I thought from the book that these would be a
headache but with guidance you have a good idea where to go with the id. There were grey headed Eastern Mountain,
Yellow-Whiskered and Yellow Streaked but Grey-chested Babblers
were vocal but never even glimpsed in the bracken and balsam thicket unlike their
close relative the Mountain Illadopsis, Grauer’s Warbler, Mountain Yellow
Warbler and Albertine Sooty Bulbul who were all seen with patience.
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Eastern Mountain Greenbul |
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Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher |
Dusky Crimsonwings (a tubby little finch with, well,
you know…) were found on several occasions and Equatorial Akalet, Archer’s
Robin-chat and the gaudy White Starred Robins added even more colour
when you eventually got to see them.
Higher up we found Fine Barred Woodpecker, striking Sharpe’s
Starling, more Brown-Capped Weavers and the oddly named Strange
Weaver too. Both Northern and
Pink-footed Puffbacks were found along with Mountain Oriole and
both Grey and Petit’s Cuckoo-shrikes as well as a Ludher’s
Bush-Shrike once again but despite hearing several Lagden’s Bush-shrikes
we could not find one. Chin-spot Batis were noted along with the
localised Rwenzori Batis. Both
species (like many out here) have gleaming pale eyes.
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Strange Weaver - building a nest |
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Strange Weaver - Angie Merrick
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Eristalis sp |
A Tambourine Dove perched up for us while we were
watching the Broadbills and there was even more colour to be found with a male Narina
Trogon, noisy (they sound like distressed Mallards) Black and White
Casqued Hornbills, punky Black-billed Touracos and a ludicrously
shiny gang of White-headed Wood-Hoopoes that put on a show for the crew. A couple of Mackinnon’s Shrikes were
found and one had stashed a small snake into a crevice on a branch down at path
level and flocks of Slender-billed and Narrow-tailed Starlings
past over.
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White-headed Wood-Hoopoe - Angie Merrick |
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White-headed Wood-Hoopoe |
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Mackinnon’s Shrike |
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Elephant... |
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And Gorilla - other track users |
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Blue Monkey |
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L'Hoest's Monkey |
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Tambourine Dove |
By the time we emerged onto the road were had been on the
track for just over nine hours but despite my lack of breath, it had been an
exhilarating experience with the feeling that within Bwindi we were just
scratching the surface.
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And could not have done it without these guys - and Paul of course |
Back at the lodge I had a hot shower and then sat on my
balcony (with a towel!) and dried in the evening sun whilst the bushes on the
next level of rooms below held Variable and Collared Sunbirds,
and Baglafecht Weavers (which had rusty rear crowns and not olive like the ones in Entebbe), a White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher and a family of
vociferous Chubb’s Cisticolas although we had started to call them
Chubbies by then.
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Baglafecht Weavers |
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Baglafecht Weavers |
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Chubb’s Cisticola |
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Chubb’s Cisticola |
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White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher |
Pied Crows began to gather as the sun went down and
an adult Harrier-Hawk headed off to roost too. It had been a long day – especially
immediately following the Gorilla experience but certainly one to remember. The
steps back up to the dining area seemed huge but at least I only had nine. The
ladies were down the bottom and had 62 each way of varying depth. I think that would have finished me off!
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Pied Crow |
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